You might need to clean up the edges with a file. Before disconnecting the fuel lines it is a good idea to mark which fitting is the Vent and Return. Disconnect the fuel lines from the Fuel Cell close out plate using the -6 AN wrench. If your hoses are old and starting to crack now is a great time to swap them out for a fresh set of AN hoses and fittings.
Then you can swing the tabs out of the way of the engine bay bulkhead and pull the fuel cell out through the drivers compartment. If the fuel cell is old or has not been removed in awhile it is going to be filthy. You will need to reuse the cover plate and fittings so it a good idea to block all the holes with plugs and give the plate a very good clean. With the fuel cell out of the car, now is the perfect time to clean out all the old gunk that has collected over the years.
I was replacing my fuel cell and installing the In-Tank Fuel Pump when doing the Gen3 Upgrade so it was a good time to clean out the entire engine bay and cockpit.
Before installing the new fuel cell into the car you will want to protect it from any sharp elements that would rub against the fuel cell while driving such as rivet heads and sheet metal edges. Better off using a little bit of tape now then putting a small hole in your very expensive new fuel cell.
The new Fuel Cell comes with compliance documentation make sure to store this in a safe place. Depending on the fuel cell you buy it might come with foam that helps reduce the amount of fuel movement as you corner, brake and accelerate.
You will need to cut the foam to fit the surge box in place. This can be accomplished with a hacksaw blade. The surge box should sit at the lowest central point with about an inch of clearance all around. Otherwise continue on. Use a brand new gasket and replace the fuel cell cover plate. Just loosely thread all the fasteners in place. Make sure the plastic washers are all in place, you do not want any leaks.
Do not tighten down yet we will torque them to the proper spec later. If you are doing a Gen 3 conversion you might find it beneficial to slightly clock the fuel filler neck to curve the fuel filler hose.
This will make it easier to remove the oil filter when it comes time to do oil changes. Use a brand new gasket if you do undo the fuel filler neck portion of the closeout plate. Here you can see we clocked it two fastener position if you notice the black indicator lines.
It depends on your car and hose routing on how many positions to clock it, one might be sufficient. I too would like to see install pics so I have an idea of how much work it takes to do both options underneath in stock location mounted up or in the trunk area bolted down I too would like to get a 10 gallon tank underneath but every setup I have seen has been open on the bottom including the guy on the home page and they seem to be track leagl cars I just don't want to spend time and money making a setup to only have to do it again.
I have seen quite a few cars at nopi and other events with no firewall on the bottom, and evileagle had the jmf cell, no firewall and he competed in lots of sanctioned events. As resonably priced as these cans are, it would be much easier to just buy one as apposed to building one: Allstar Performance. Project2G Proven Member. Weight savings. A cell is lighter. Also, sumping the oe tank is only an option for 1g's. This is the only sumped 2g FWD obviously I've seen. And that's the only picture that's up there.
I think there was a better one before classified listing. You must be logged in to view this image or video. Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, Why is that? That car is just a shell right now and is not set up. Isn't that the fuel line right there hanging out the plate opening not secured just asking for someone to come by and cut it? Probably, but as I said, this is a shell for sale with no motor and the fuel lines are not ran properly or hooked up.
They are just hanging there so they aren't on the ground. Yes, it's probably not the best place for them, but if they were cut, they'd just have to be replaced before being run under the car to the engine bay. At least that's how I see it, as I don't think the owner mentioned anything when I talked to him. Project2G said:. Or FWD 2G's correct? I too would like to see more pictures if anyone has any. July New cavity tape was used to cover all exposed rivets, metal-to-metal joints and other areas that could damage the new cells in both tanks.
These replaced ones that were installed years ago. The original factory fuel bladders were prone to developing wrinkles, which could trap water, preventing it from coming out of the original fuel drains. A later Service Bulletin superseded that requirement but required installing new fuel bladders with the test ports moved a few inches to a location that was not affected by wrinkling. They use a cartridge design and can be easily serviced, unlike factory ports that must be completely removed.
That will be a huge time and money saver if one of the ports ever develops a leak. They went in much more easily than the old ones came out! The partner who originally found fuel leaking did a thorough job of checking the new fuel senders to see how they matched up against the indication on the original fuel gauges, starting with empty fuel tanks and adding 5 gallons at a time on each side. If the gauges say full, they are full. Half full, ditto. Since then the airplane has flown over 20 hours with no evidence of any leaking or other problems.
In addition to new cells, Eagle offers repair services on old fuel cells, guidance on which cells may or may not be repairable, background information on what bladder-type cells are made of, issues with fuel cells in particular aircraft, tips for inspecting cells when a leak is found or suspected and tips for removing old cells and installing new ones.
The website also has tips for getting the longest life out of the fuel cells you have. If auto fuel is used, do not let it stand for long periods of time and inspect all rubber fuel system components frequently. I used a safety wire can as a template Clean and debur pump bracket mounting holes and clearance cut. Last, if you do not already attach your return fuel line as to fill the surge box.
If your surge box was using a -6 90 or 45 deg. Clean all debris out of the surge box, attach the -6 cap provided in the kit to the outside of the bulk head fitting and set the box aside.
Next lets assemble the pump, bracket and line: The base filter sock has a one time barb fitting, lay it on the bench opening up and push the pump in to it. You can feel it push in and stop. The black foam sleeve goes on the body of the fuel pump to dampen the pump. The electrical bulk head fitting should be located as high as possible on service plate.
We are going to relocate the return line fitting down on the same side of the service plate. If the return line fitting was placed on the drivers left of the service plate. Note: Before drilling, please lay the large electrical fitting washer in the proposed location on the back side of the service plate.
We need to check for interference with the service plate gasket, you may need to adjust the location. It takes a heavy duty drill or drill press to do this. Carefully debur the hole front and back. Used with care a sharp bit will chamfer the edge of the hole. Make sure the plastic sealing washer is on the outside of the electrical bulk head fitting on both fittings. Install the flat washer and nut with a little blue thread locker on the inside of both fittings.
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